Method of making shirts.



A. J. GUMNOGK. METHOD OF MAKING SHIRTS. APPLICATION FILED mm: 9, 1910.

1,016,552. Patented'Feb.6,1912.

COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH Co..\\'AsN|NGTON. 0.1:.

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ARTHUR J. CUMNOCK, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

ivrn'rnon or MAKING snin'rs.

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Original application filed July 2'7, 1906, Serial No. 328,128.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 6, 1912.

Divided and this application filed June 9, 1910.

Serial No. 566,019.

To all whom 2'2 may concern Be it known that I, ARTHUR J. CUMNOGK, acitizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the borough ofManhattan and State of New York, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Methods of Making Shirts, of which the following is aspecification.

This invention relates to a method of making shirts or similar articles.The method preferably concerns itself with making shirts from tubularwebs, but is capable of adaptation to a single fabric folded intotubular form, as will be explained more fully hereafter.

The main feature of the invention con sists in forming a web or similarpart with the yoke portion and in forming the article from said web suchthat by a final folding operation, parts of dissimilar contour canbebrought one above the other for the finishing operation, the articleitself retaining the selvages of the original web, thereby simplifyingthe finishing operation.

There is preferably illustrated herein a complete tubular web, and afterthe said web has been folded with the selvages superposed, the front andback portions may be formed by the mechanism described in my co-pendingapplication, Serial Number 328,128, filed July 27th, 1906 of which thispresent application is a division, or in any other suitable way.Thereafter the article itself is folded into a position, such that thecreases of the fold extend along the selvages or along longitudinallines projecting from the arm scye portions, thereby bringing the frontand back portions into superposed po sition ready for the finishingoperation.

In a general way, the method is in forming the articles such as shirts,or other similar articles, having portions of dissimilar contour thatmust be sewed orsecured to- Fig. 2 is a plan view of the web folded intothe initlal posit-ion, showing the articles formed or cut therefrom bythe means provided in said application, Serial Number 328,128 or in anysuitable way.

Referring to the drawings, the selvages are indicated by 1, and as shownin Fig. 2 the web is given an initial fold such that the selvages arelocated substantially at the center of the blank or web, and while theindented web is in this position, the portions of the shirt may be cuttherefrom by hand or by any other mechanism, preferably that shown insaid co-pending application. The front portion of the shirt is indicatedby l, and the back portion of the shirt is indicated by 3, and as shownin Fig. 2 the initial position of the parts is such that the neckportions 2 are located at the edges of the blanks, while the indentedarm scye portions indicated by 5 are located intermediate of the neckportions or substantially at the center of the blank. As explained insaid original application co-pending herewith, the yoke portions of theshirt are formed in the web at substantially the points where the neckand arm scye portions are formed. It is obvious that in this position ofthe blank, if the tubular web is employed, as illustrated herein, thearticles can be out most readily from the web, the parts of similarcontour lying one above the other. In other words, there are parts ofthe front and parts of the back immediately adjacent to each other, asindicated in Fig. 2, wherein it will be seen that a front portionindicated by a is immedi ately adjacent a back portion, indicated by 3,and another front portion 4: will lie below a front portion, and a backportion will be superposed upon a back portion so that in cutting outthe articles, the lines to be followed in cutting will be superposed.

in operating under thisimproved method there is considerable saving bothin material and in labor by reason of the fact that the blanks can. beplaced one over the other and by a single cutting operation, which isdone transversely to the length of the article made from the blank, thecomplete article is formed, thereby requiring a minimum amount of sewingat the upper edges of the articles, the side edge of the articlerequiring substantially no sewing. Moreover the folding is easily andaccurately done by reason of the fact that the folding is made alonglines projected from the indented arm scye portions and in the case of atubular blank both sides of the article are folded simultaneouslywithout any change in the position of the parts after the cuttingoperation. In other words there is simply two steps to the operation,one the single cutting operation from the blank and a single foldingoperation thereafter to bring parts in proper position for sewing.

It will be noted from an examination of Fig. 2 that the parts are firstcut from the blank so that a cutout part, which may be called the neckpart, is located at the right side and one also at the left side of theblank. Moreover, a careful study of the figure shows that the neck partat the left projects higher up than the neck partat the right side(looking at Fig. 2). This arrangement of the neck parts is for the purpose of providing for the difliculty of cutting simultaneously a backportion of a shirt and a front portion, since the back portion of a wellformed shirt must project higher up than the front portion. Consequentlyan early step in this improved method is to cut from the blank the partsof a shirt such that there will be part of a back port-ion and part of afront portion in the same plane, having the neck part of the one portionprojecting higher up than the neck part of the other. Moreover, aspreferably shown herein, there is a part of a back shirt portion belowthe part shown in Fig. 2 on the upper layer and these two parts of aback portion are similar in conformation, the neck parts projecting tothe same height and on the right side there is a part of a front portionin the upper layer of the blank and a part similar in every respectbeneath the upper. Consequently these parts can be cut simultaneouslyfrom the blank in this relative arrangement and yet they are formed orcut from one blank portion having dissimilar parts (part of a front andpart of a back) located in the same plane. It will now require onefolding operation only to bring the parts in proper position for sewing.This folding is done along the lines 1, which are preferably shown asselvages, and thereby the parts are brought into position of Fig. 1ready for the final sewing together.

Having described my invention, I claim as follows:

1. The method of making a garment having portions of similar anddissimilar contour by first cutting on a blank the top edges of saidgarment such that the edge portions of dissimilar contour will heinitially in the same plane and thereafter folding the blank along linescorresponding wit-h the sides of the garment to bring portions of onecontour in a different plane from portions of a different contour,substantially as specified.

2. The method of forming garments from a blank by one cutting and onefolding operation, comprising first cutting the top edges of the garmenthaving a plurality of dissimilar neck portions, one projecting at adifferent height from the other, and parts of different neck portionslying in the same plane one with the other and then folding the blank tobring the dissimilar neck portions in different planes such that oneportion is superposed upon the other.

3. The method of making garments having portions of similar anddissimilar contour by first cutting on a tubular web the top edges ofsaid garment such that there will be edges of dissimilar contour on eachlayer and thereafter folding the web along lines corresponding with theselvages thereof to make the garment ready for sewing, substantially asspecified.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand this lth day of June1910.

ARTHUR J. GUMNOCK.

\Vitnesses ALBERT POWELL, V. F. Lyons.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

